Forget what you've heard about mining accidents, dust storms and the murder rate: now is the time to visit. The railroads have just arrived, cattlemen are fencing in the range and the west won't stay wild for long.

Meet cowboys, Indians, cavalry officers and working girls with hearts of gold. Witness cattle drives in Fort Worth and gunfights in Tombstone; dance at an all-night fandango in Santa Fe. Explore the vast plains west of the Mississippi, the roaring geysers of Yellowstone and the giant redwoods of Yosemite Valley.

Drawing on contemporary newspapers and travel memoirs, Joan Tapper offers advice on the cleanest boarding houses and filthiest saloons, what to eat, what to wear, who to meet - and who to avoid - and how to get out of Dodge in a hurry if you fail to spot the difference. From navigating the new railroads to avoiding calamity when you finally meet Calamity Jane, this entertaining guide belongs in the holster of every discerning time-travelling tourist.